The Japanese Fashion Scene: from kimonos to cosplay

Posted by zadisakura April 14, 2026

The Japanese Fashion Scene: from kimonos to cosplay

Coming from a high school where both students and teachers frequently stroll the halls in sweatshirts or PJ pants, the high standard of daily fashion in Japan is inspirational. As with everything Japanese, intentionality, respect, and a deep aesthetic awareness is at the forefront of clothing choice. Everyone is put together, all the time, wherever they go.

As I sit in the Kyoto Botanical gardens writing this, a group of young women in trenchcoats and black leather loafers with shiny buckles walk past me. An older man reads at a table nearby in a white sports coat and posh fedora hat. Everyday fashion reflects Japanese expectations of how one shows up in society: professional, polite, mature, and respectful.

Everything is far more formal in Japan - speech, behavior, dress. I have yet to see a Japanese person wearing all athletic clothing (except for those actively exercising) or a full outfit of sweats. People clearly put effort into how they dress every single day, and even the simplest outfits are intentional and polished.

This more formal approach to fashion begins early, with the culture of school uniforms in Japan. Most kids my age are in their school uniform, a familiar symbol of Japanese culture around the world. You’ve likely seen manga or anime characters in the typical blazer, tie, pleated skirt and knee socks. Japanese people are a fan of the school uniform even when they’re no longer in school - a lot of young women’s fashion feels very school-uniform-inspired. This early standard of dress ingrained in all Japanese school children undoubtedly influences people’s sense of style and ideas of what constitutes dressing appropriately.

Two girls in school uniform in downtown Kyoto. (NOTE: knee socks, blazer, pleated skirt, leather shoes, shoulder bag covered in kawaii keychains)

But school is not the only place for uniforms. One of my favorites is the uniform worn by the road-traffic-directors at many shopping malls and busy intersections. In white gloves, stylish hats and shining buttons, these men confidently wave people across the street and halt traffic with a blow of their whistle. Not a job that would warrant nearly as intense a uniform in the United States, but we all know that clothing influences others’ perceptions of you, and to be taken seriously you often must dress the part!

The spiffy turquoise uniform of Kyoto traffic directors

In Japan, people have a broader conception of what makes a profession respectable. It’s not just about salary or degree or prestige, its about how seriously you take your work and fill your necessary role in society. The road-traffic-director may not make as much money as the CEO of an upstart tech company, but he is fulfilling his necessary role with a sense of purpose and earnestness that possibly deserves more respect than the millionaire lawyer who shows up late and can’t be bothered with niceties. And the road-traffic-director is given a uniform that reflects the respect he deserves.

Contemporary uniforms (whether worn by school kids or bakers or shop employees) are all influenced by Western fashion. But traditional Japanese clothing, while incredibly different, is no less precise or intentional than a sleek suit or classy pair of shoes. The iconic Japanese garment is the kimono, and I was honestly shocked to see just how much this item of clothing is still a part of life today.

Two women in colorful kimonos at Shiogamo shrine. Shrines are a popular place to wear kimono

The kimono as we know it originated in the Heian period (794-1185). During this time, Japan had recently cut off trade and contact with China and had begun a period of isolation in which distinctly Japanese art, craft, and culture flourished. The nobility of the Heian period were largely absorbed in artistic pursuits, and the mark of a well-bred, distinguished person was determined less by one’s education or success on the battlefield as it was by things like the beauty of their handwriting, the quality of their poetry, and their attention to the nuances of fashion. This is a fascinating time in Japanese history and the origin of much of Japan’s preoccupation with aesthetics and visual details.

Kimonos during the Heian period were elaborate, heavily layered ensembles whose colors and patterns conveyed significant meaning. So much emphasis was placed on fashion that failing to wear the proper shade of pink or number of sleeve layers was enough for someone to deny you an engagement proposal!

The complexity of the kimono gradually decreased over the next few hundreds years, becoming the iconic ankle length, square sleeved garment we recognize today. However, during the Meiji period (1868-1912), when Japan opened up to the Western world and became increasingly influenced by Western customs, many people were required by law to wear western style clothing. Kimono was still often worn at home, but at work or other official functions it was forbidden.

Now, you still see people in kimono almost everywhere in Japan, but that’s not their daily outfit. Kimono is a form of dressing up, whether for a wedding or shrine visit or photoshoot with the cherry blossoms, but isn’t worn at home or to work. I’ve seen people in kimono on the subway, at the Kyoto Symphony orchestra concert, and at almost every temple and shrine I’ve visited. For older generations it seems to be just another way of getting dressed up, whereas for younger generations its more about the photoshoot. But nonetheless kimonos still color almost every street in Kyoto!

Blue and pink kimono in big-city Tokyo

Hand in hand with a formal, professional sense of style comes a much higher expectation of modesty. Many young women in the US like to play the “is-it-a-bra-or-is-it-a-shirt?” game whenever they leave the house, and I am used to seeing bare arms and legs and waists and plunging necklines and skin tight short shorts. At home I wear crop tops, cutoff jeans and spaghetti strap tank tops without thinking twice, but here in Japan I’ve begun to revise my wardrobe. I brought several tops here that I didn’t even consider might be too showy, but they’ve sat unworn in my closet for the last two months.

Cleavage is a no-go here. As are shoulders, collarbone, and even a slice of midriff. Legs, however, seem to get an exception. You will frequently see women in a conservative top paired with a dangerously short skirt, or a long, concealing sweater or sweatshirt and no sign of bottoms at all! I’ve become so used to this that seeing tourists in sleeveless dresses or tops is a bit of a shock, and it feels perfectly natural to be out on a warm, sunny spring day and be surrounded by people in long sleeves, high necklines, and jeans.

A shopper in jeans, a long sheer dress layered over top and a fuzzy blue sweater. She's looking at a full length patterned skirt - creative outfit and not an inch of skin showing!

This habit of covering up, especially in the warmer months, isn’t just about modesty. A stark contrast from the obsessive sunbathing, fake tanning, and bronzer application of many Americans, Japanese people, as with most East-Asian countries, value pale skin. Parasols are quite popular, and almost every beauty product is a form of sunscreen. As a result, people here have gorgeous skin, and you often have no clue how old someone is. I met a woman a few weeks ago who I swore was in her fifties but later learned was seventy-six! They’re clearly doing something right… But this obsession with sun protection has manifested in fashion, and may be part of the reason for everyone’s modesty.

As someone who loves playing with fashion and creating new outfits, I’ve taken a lot of inspiration from the styles I see around me in Kyoto. Here are some of my fashion highlights, in no particular order:

Layering: think dresses and skirts over jeans, tank tops over button ups, socks over tights under leg-warmers, multiple jackets, and floor length sheer nightgowns over a perfectly normal outfit of a T-shirt and jeans, just to name a few examples. Layering clothing is a chic yet casual look that Japan has perfected, and people are not afraid to experiment with unusual combinations.

A poofy, lacy blouse over a blue button-up shirt

Leather: An outfit is not complete without a pop of leather! It could be shoes or bag or jacket (maybe all three!), but almost everyone you see will be wearing some leather. I’ve never been particularly attracted to this material, but its timeless elegance has clearly made a mark on Japan. Even young people seem more oriented to leather loafers or flats than to sneakers, and leather jackets are the ultimate accessory for both men and women.

Two leather clad women in downtown Kyoto (NOTE: leather boots, jacket, and bag)

Skirts: Japanese women are the queens of the skirt! I didn’t realize how versatile this garment could be until I came here. Whether it’s schoolgirls’ pleated uniform skirts, fluffy ruffle skirts, long white maxi skirts, or sleek ankle length skirts, almost every other woman I see is wearing one. Many Japanese women are a fan of ruffles, lace, frills, and Little-Bo-Peep-esque flouncery, so most of these skirts are more poofy than fitted. Interestingly, most skirts girls wear in the US are denim, but I’ve seen barely any here.

A Little Bo Peep look alike in Shibuya - complete with a frilly bonnet, puff sleeve blouse, and many layered lacy skirt

Skirt sighting near the Philosopher's path

Socks: Knee socks, over the knee socks, sheer socks, ruffle socks, little bands that look like socks to stick up over tall boots, the list could go on and on and on. I’ve seen probably half a dozen stores and pop-up shops dedicated solely to what goes on inside your shoes. Adding on to this, the era of hose is far from over in Japan. I thought this garment was a half-century old myth, and maybe it is in America, but pantyhose are as much a staple of a Japanese woman’s wardrobe as underwear. Convenience stores sell three colors of hose, right next to the chips and candy!

Three fashionistas in Shibuya station (NOTE: white knee socks, over the knee boots with skin-perfecting hose)

Schoolbags: At ORHS, students stuff their binders, laptop, and pencil case into brightly colored backpacks, typically from a brand like North Face or JanSport. Most backpacks are a bit athletic looking and have some visible wear and tear. In contrast, the bags that Japanese school kids use are either a giant, regulation black backpack, or more often, a stylish leather book bag. I love the look of the leather bags - they chicly complement the school uniforms and are such a far cry from the backpacks I’m used to.

A gaggle of schoolgirls in Kyoto with several variations of regulation-style schoolbags

Keychains: The ultimate accessory to every bag! Keychains, especially stuffed animal ones, are absolutely everywhere. I’ve bought quite a few myself, and I’ve seen keychains of everything from Hello Kitty to a slice of salmon to anime characters. They often adorn the aforementioned school bags, and often the keychain collection looks heavier than the bag itself.

A display of keychains in the Harajuku Sanrio store

Masks: not an accessory I’m planning on wearing anytime soon, but face masks (yes, just like COVID!) are surprisingly popular. Probably about a third of the people on any given train, subway, or bus are wearing a mask, but they aren’t just limited to densely packed public spaces. People wear them walking or biking outside, even alone in their cars! I’ve been told it’s often to do with seasonal allergies or mild illness, but that women also use them when they don’t want (or have time) to wear makeup. I’m not sure that everyone wearing a mask is doing it for a specific reason though, it could just be because that’s what everyone else does.

Two mask wearers on the Karasuma subway, probably a quarter of the people on this train were wearing a mask

Hats: I’ve been searching for a particular style of hat since I arrived here - it’s something of a mix between a beret and a baseball cap, and I have yet to find one that fits. But as with socks, I’ve seen more types of hats here than ever before. There’s an entire store in the Aeon mall near our house just for unique styles of hats.

Two little cuties outside the Ghibli museum in stylish hats

Neutral colors: I was told recently that an outfit I was wearing was very Japanese, except for the fact that “Japanese people don’t like color.” This isn’t much of an exaggeration - most outfits are neutral, solid colors, and people rarely wear flashy labels or complicated patterns (unless its a kimono!).

Jackets: not just for winter! Leather jackets aren’t the only version, almost everyone in Kyoto has some sort of stylish jacket as part of their outfit. People love retro looking jackets that cinch at the bottom, trenchcoats, and peacoats.

A cream colored jacket paired with a fluffy mini skirt and beige cap

Cosplay: an essay on Japanese fashion would not be complete without mentioning cosplay. Fan culture is on another level in Japan - a hugely important part of many peoples identities is the anime or character or boyband they are obsessed with. It’s not just Japanese media either - the obsession with Disney, Harry Potter, and other Western characters and shows goes far beyond the fandoms those things have amassed in their original countries. And costumes, something Americans reserve solely for Halloween, are a totally acceptable way to express that almost worshipful obsession. These costumes tend to blur the line between "dress up" and "just an outfit that I chose."

A woman toeing the line between outfit and costume: a .. nurse? with a puppy dog patient?

Cosplay can be a way for people to take on other identities. In a society that has strict, unspoken social norms around how you can act and who you can be, taking on the identity of someone else (frequently an anime, manga or video game character) may be an outlet for people to express parts of themselves they can’t otherwise.

There is a lot to be inspired by in Kyoto, from hats to socks to school uniforms, but the Japanese attitude towards dressing well for even the most mundane tasks as a way to show respect to the places you visit, people around you, and yourself, is something we could all incorporate a bit more into our lives.

A few more fashion tidbits: